A kitchen built around a few materials
Many of the most recognisable tools in Mexican cooking are made from just a handful of materials: volcanic stone, fired clay, wood, and, more recently, cast iron, steel and aluminium. Each material suits a particular job. Stone grinds, clay holds gentle heat, wood is warm in the hand and does not scratch, and metal is durable and easy to clean.
The result is a toolkit that is surprisingly compact. A cook with a grinding stone, a flat griddle, a clay pot, a steamer and a few spoons can prepare a very large share of the everyday repertoire. Many households today use a mix: a stone mortar for salsa on the weekend, a blender on a busy weekday, and a clay pot that has been in the family for years.
Tools for grinding
Grinding is the oldest and most central task. Corn that has been soaked and softened in an alkaline solution, a process described in the article on the nixtamalization process, must be ground into a smooth, cohesive dough before it can become anything else.
- The metate is a flat or slightly sloping slab of stone, usually volcanic, worked with a handheld stone roller called a mano. It has long been used for corn, cacao, chiles, and spices.
- The molcajete and tejolote form a three-legged stone mortar with a heavy pestle. They are best known for crushing salsa, garlic, and spices, and they leave a texture that many cooks describe as coarser and more varied than a machine produces.
- The mill (molino) is the modern shortcut. In many towns, cooks take their cooked corn to a neighbourhood mill, or buy ready-made masa dough from a tortilleria.
- The blender has become a standard tool for smooth sauces, soups and drinks, and few kitchens are without one.
Both stone tools reward a little care and patience, and each has its own article for those who want the details.
Tools for heat
The comal is a flat griddle, traditionally made of unglazed fired clay and today more often of thin steel or cast iron. It cooks tortillas, but it also toasts dried chiles, seeds, and spices, chars tomatoes and onions for salsa, and warms tortillas for serving. Cooks working through toasting chiles rely on it for exactly that reason: dry, steady heat without added fat.
Clay pots are used for slow, moist cooking. A narrow-necked olla de barro is a classic vessel for pot beans, while a wider, shallower cazuela suits stews, sauces, and braises. Many cooks say earthenware holds heat evenly and gently, though the effect is hard to measure and some people simply prefer the flavour of food cooked this way.
Steamers matter wherever tamales are made. A tall pot with a rack or perforated insert raises the tamales above boiling water so they cook in steam. The corn husks or banana leaves that act as tamale wrappers protect the dough during this long, gentle cooking.
Heavy pots and pans such as the cazo, a wide, rounded copper cauldron, are used in some regions for large batches of carnitas or sweets. These are professional tools and are less common in home kitchens.
Tools for shaping and finishing
The tortilla press, made of wood, cast iron or aluminium, flattens a ball of dough between two plates. It is a relatively modern convenience compared with patting by hand, and it makes consistent discs quickly. Hand shaping remains common, especially for thicker items such as gorditas.
The molinillo is a carved wooden whisk used for frothing drinking chocolate. Its loose rings and grooved body are spun between the palms in a jug of hot liquid, and the resulting foam is part of the character of stone-ground chocolate served in the traditional way.
Smaller items round out the kit: wooden spoons, a spatula for turning tortillas, a sieve for straining sauces, and a knife or two. Fine-mesh strainers and cloth are often used for drinks such as aguas frescas and for straining stock.
Traditional and modern, side by side
It is a mistake to treat the old tools as museum pieces and the new ones as a betrayal. Most cooks choose pragmatically. A blender is fast, while a stone mortar gives a particular texture and some say a different taste. A tortilla press speeds up a task that takes practice by hand. A steel comal is lighter and cheaper than a clay one. Preference, budget, space, and the dish being made all play a role, and customs differ widely between regions and families.
Buying and using tools safely
A few cautions apply across the toolkit:
- Glazes on clay. Some traditional low-fired glazed pottery has historically been made with lead-based glazes, which can leach into acidic or long-cooked food. If you buy clay cookware, look for pieces clearly labelled as lead-free or food-safe, and use decorative pottery for display only.
- Thermal shock. Clay can crack if it goes from cold to very hot too quickly. Heat it gradually and avoid placing a hot pot on a cold or wet surface.
- Stone dust. A new molcajete or metate often sheds grit at first, so it needs to be washed and seasoned before use.
- Hot surfaces and steam. Comals run very hot, and lifting the lid on a steamer releases a burst of steam, so use dry cloths and keep your face back.
- Chiles. Handling dried or fresh chiles can irritate skin and eyes, so consider gloves when working with large quantities.
Where to start
A newcomer does not need everything. A comal or heavy skillet, a pot with a lid that can serve as a steamer, and a sturdy blender cover a great deal of ground. From there, a tortilla press and a stone mortar are the most popular next steps, since they change both the process and the result in ways that are easy to notice. Add clay and wooden pieces as the cooking you enjoy calls for them.