Why steaming matters
Tamales are cooked with moist heat, not direct heat. The dough sits inside a wrapper and is surrounded by steam for a long time, which sets it into a tender, cohesive filling. The pot and rig that produce this steam are simple, but a few design details decide whether the tamales come out light and set or soggy and raw in the middle.
The wrappers themselves, such as corn husks and banana leaves, are discussed under tamale wrappers. The main point here is that the wrapper keeps water out of the dough, so the setup must create steam without letting liquid pool around the tamales.
The tamalera
A tamalera is a tall pot with a tight-fitting lid, often with a perforated insert or rack that holds the food above the water. Traditional versions are made of aluminium or enamelled steel, and they come in sizes from small household pots to very large ones for festive batches. A good tamalera has:
- A deep body so the tamales can stand or lie in layers.
- A removable rack or false bottom, with holes, that keeps the food above the water.
- A snug lid that traps steam. Some cooks also place a clean cloth between the pot and the lid to catch condensation so that it does not drip on the tamales.
Any large stockpot with a lid can fill the same role if it has a rack, a steamer insert, or another way to raise the food.
Improvised rigs
Many cooks make their own steaming platform. Common approaches include:
- A metal rack or trivet set in the bottom of a stockpot.
- A steamer basket or colander that sits above the water level inside a large pot.
- A ring of crumpled foil or heatproof ramekins to prop up a plate or perforated tray.
- A layer of spare corn husks or banana leaves lining the bottom and sides of the pot. This protects the tamales and also adds a husky aroma to the steam.
Whatever the support, the key is that the food stays clear of the boiling water and that steam can circulate through the layers. A rig that blocks the steam path will cook unevenly.
Loading the pot
Tamales are usually stood upright with the open end up, packed loosely but firmly enough that they support one another. A tight pack keeps them upright, while too tight a pack stops steam from circulating. Some cooks fold the tails of the husks up to keep the filling in. Others lay them flat in layers, particularly for large banana-leaf tamales. Covering the top layer with a damp cloth or extra leaves helps trap heat and catches condensation.
Leave space at the top of the pot, and never fill it to the brim.
Keeping the water going
A tamale batch can steam for an hour or more, depending on size and filling, and the water slowly boils away. Letting the pot run dry can scorch the pot and ruin the batch. Some cooks put a few coins in the bottom of the pot, and when the rattling stops, the water has run low. This is a widely repeated custom, though not every household does it. Others simply check at set intervals and top up with boiling water, not cold, so that the temperature stays steady and the steam does not stop.
Start with enough water to just stay below the rack, and check the level regularly through the cooking time.
Knowing when they are done
A tamale is typically done when the dough pulls away cleanly from the wrapper and holds its shape. To test, lift one out, let it rest a minute, and open it. If the dough sticks to the husk or feels mushy, it needs more time. The exact time varies with size, filling, and how tightly packed the pot is, so treat any quoted time as a rough guide. Resting the tamales in the covered pot for a short while after the heat is off helps them firm up.
Safety
- Steam burns badly. Lift the lid away from your face and use dry oven gloves or a thick cloth.
- Large pots full of boiling water are heavy and awkward. Place the pot where it is stable, and avoid moving it while full.
- Add water carefully and keep children away from the stove.
- Tamales with meat or poultry fillings should be cooked until hot all the way through. Store leftovers promptly in the refrigerator and reheat them thoroughly. Cooked food left at room temperature for long periods can be unsafe.
Reheating
The same steamer can warm up cooked tamales gently, as can a microwave or a comal, though steaming restores the texture best. Reheating in the wrapper keeps the dough from drying out.