The simplest pan in the kitchen
A comal is a flat, wide cooking surface with little or no rim. It sits over a flame or a bed of coals and provides dry, even heat. The design has been used across Mexico and Central America for a very long time, and variations on it appear in many regions. Despite its simplicity, the comal does a remarkable range of jobs, and many cooks consider it the most used item in the kitchen.
Materials and how they behave
Comals are made from several materials, and each has its own habits.
Fired clay. The traditional comal is a thin disc of unglazed clay. It heats gradually, holds a gentle heat, and is associated with the flavour and texture of tortillas cooked on it. Many cooks cure a clay comal with a thin wash of lime (calcium hydroxide) and water, applied and dried to seal the surface, though practices differ. Clay is fragile, cracks if it is heated too fast or splashed with cold water, and must be handled gently. Food-grade lime is a caustic material, so wear gloves and avoid contact with eyes and skin while using it.
Cast iron. A heavy cast-iron comal is slow to heat but holds heat very well, which suits cooking a large stack of tortillas. It needs seasoning with a thin layer of oil, and it should be dried after washing to avoid rust.
Thin steel or carbon steel. Light, quick to warm, and inexpensive, this is a common choice in modern homes and street stalls. It heats unevenly in places, particularly over a small burner, so the cook may rotate it. It can also be seasoned.
Aluminium and non-stick pans. Convenient, but non-stick coatings are generally not meant to be heated empty at very high temperatures, so they are a less natural fit for dry-roasting. Check the maker’s guidance.
Any heavy, flat-bottomed skillet works as a substitute, and a griddle plate set across two burners suits large comals.
Heat management
Most comal cooking relies on medium to medium-high heat with no oil. The pan is usually heated until a drop of water dances or a tortilla begins to colour within a minute or so. Too hot and the surface scorches before the inside cooks, while too cool and tortillas dry out and turn stiff. Because heat spreads unevenly, cooks learn to move things around, placing food in cooler corners when needed. The skill is in watching rather than timing.
Tortillas first
The best-known use is cooking tortillas. A disc of dough from a press or a hand-patted one goes on the hot surface, and it is turned a couple of times. A well-made corn tortilla will often puff slightly as steam inflates the dough. The details of dough and moisture are covered in the guide to corn tortillas, and the dough itself is discussed under masa dough. Flour tortillas of the north are also cooked on a comal, though they brown in a different way and are often rolled thinner. Tortillas that have gone stale can be re-crisped on the comal, which links to the idea of crisp tostadas.
Toasting and roasting
The comal is just as important for what cooks do before the main dish.
- Dried chiles are warmed briefly until fragrant and pliable. They should be turned quickly and only for a few seconds, because scorched chiles turn bitter. This step, covered in more detail in toasting chiles, deepens the flavour of sauces. Open a window, since the fumes from toasting chiles can irritate the throat and eyes.
- Spices and seeds, such as sesame, pumpkin seeds, cumin, and peppercorns, are toasted until aromatic, usually in a dry pan with constant shaking.
- Garlic and onion can be roasted in their skins, producing a sweeter, softer flavour.
- Tomatoes and tomatillos are charred until blistered, giving salsas a smoky note. This is the starting point of tomatillo salsa.
- Fresh chiles and peppers are blistered so the skins can be peeled, as for stuffed dishes.
- Cheese, tortillas filled with cheese, and meat are warmed or cooked, depending on the dish. Quesadillas are a familiar example.
- Nuts and cacao may be toasted before grinding, depending on the recipe.
Caring for a comal
Clay comals should be wiped clean with a dry or lightly damp cloth, with soap avoided if possible, since the clay can absorb it. Iron and steel comals are cleaned with hot water and a brush, dried over the heat, and given a thin film of oil. Avoid soaking them. Let any comal cool before washing to prevent warping or cracking.
Safety
The surface is very hot, flat, and without sides, so food is easy to knock off. Use tongs or a spatula for turning, keep hands clear of the flame, and keep children away from a hot comal. When roasting chiles, wash hands carefully afterwards and avoid touching your eyes.