Why stale tortillas are useful
A fresh corn tortilla is soft and moist. After a day or two it dries, stiffens and begins to crack, which makes it less pleasant as a wrapper. In a thrifty kitchen that is not a problem but an opportunity. Drier tortillas absorb less oil and crisp more evenly, so they are better for frying and baking than fresh ones. This is the idea behind tostadas and totopos.
Both are crisp forms made from tortillas, but they differ in shape and role, and the words are used differently from place to place.
Tostadas and totopos
A tostada is a whole tortilla, fried or baked until flat and crisp. It serves as a base for toppings such as beans, shredded chicken, seafood, lettuce, crema, avocado and salsa. Tostadas are eaten by hand, and the crunch is part of the point.
A totopo is more often a wedge or piece of tortilla, cooked until crisp, used to scoop salsa or bean dip. In much of Mexico the word is used for chips cut from tortillas, but in Oaxaca’s Isthmus of Tehuantepec, totopos are large, crisp, clay-oven-baked rounds, quite unlike the small triangles familiar elsewhere. Usage varies, and some people call wedge chips simply tortilla chips.
Choosing the tortillas
Use corn tortillas, ideally a day or more old. If they are fresh, leave them uncovered for several hours or dry them briefly in a low oven. Thin tortillas become delicate and crackly, while thick ones make sturdier crisp bases. Tortillas made from nixtamalized corn have a flavor that survives frying and baking well, and color varieties such as blue corn make distinctive chips.
Flour tortillas can also be crisped, though they brown differently and are more often cooked into thin crisp pieces than used as scooping chips.
Frying
Frying gives the most traditional result: a blistered, golden crunch.
- Heat a shallow layer or pot of neutral oil to a moderate temperature, where a scrap of tortilla sizzles steadily without browning instantly.
- Fry tortillas or wedges in small batches, turning once, until they stop bubbling and turn pale gold.
- Lift out, drain on a rack or paper, and salt while still warm.
Oil is a hazard. Keep tortillas dry, lower them in gently so oil does not splash, and never leave a pan unattended. Do not let water near the pot. If the oil smokes, lower the heat. Allow oil to cool fully before handling or discarding, and do not pour it down a drain.
Tortillas that are too fresh produce chewy chips, and oil that is too cool produces greasy ones. Oil that is too hot browns the outside before the inside is dry, leaving a chewy center.
Baking
Baking is simpler and uses less oil.
- Heat the oven to a moderate temperature.
- Lay tortillas or wedges in a single layer on a tray. A light brush or spray of oil is optional.
- Bake, turning once, until dry and lightly golden. Timing varies by oven and thickness.
Baked tostadas are lighter, with a cleaner corn flavor and a more brittle bite. Watch closely at the end, because they can go from golden to burnt quickly. Whole tortillas can also be crisped directly on a comal over steady heat, which gives a drier, toastier result.
Seasoning
Salt is the usual seasoning and sticks best when applied immediately after cooking, while the surface still has a trace of oil. Lime juice, chile powder or garlic are sometimes added to totopos, though purists may leave them plain. Avoid excess, as the crisp pieces will go with strong salsas or beans.
Storage
Fully cooled, crisp tortilla products last for several days in an airtight container. If they soften, a few minutes in a warm oven revives them. Chips that smell stale or rancid should be discarded, since oil can go off over time. Store away from heat and moisture.
Uses
Beyond toppings and dips, crisp tortillas feature in many dishes. They form the base of breakfast chilaquiles, where fried pieces are tossed in sauce, and they sometimes top soups, such as the classic tortilla soup, as a crunchy garnish. They can also be crushed and used as a coating or a thickener. The idea of nothing wasted is common to many kitchens, and it fits the wider habit of making the most of masa dough.
A few troubleshooting notes
- Chips are tough: the tortillas were too thick or underdried; slice thinner or cook longer.
- Greasy chips: the oil was not hot enough, or the tortillas were crowded in the pan.
- Uneven color: cut pieces of similar size and turn them once.
- Broken tostadas: handle them gently, and use a utensil to flip rather than your fingers.
With a little practice, stale tortillas become one of the more satisfying leftovers in the kitchen.