Start with the dough
A good corn tortilla depends mostly on the dough. Whether it comes from fresh masa or from dried nixtamalized flour, the dough should be smooth, soft and slightly springy, like modeling clay that does not crack when pinched. If you are working from dried flour, the usual proportion is a little more than half as much water as flour by volume, but this is a starting point only. Flours differ, and so does the weather. Add warm water gradually and knead until the dough feels right.
Dried flour needs to be nixtamalized corn flour (masa harina). Plain cornmeal or corn flour will not hold together as a tortilla, because the corn has not been treated with lime. Fresh masa from a mill may already be moist enough, and often needs only a little water or none.
Test the hydration
Before shaping, roll a ball of dough about the size of a walnut and flatten it between your palms. Then look at the edge.
- Edge cracks deeply: the dough is too dry. Knead in a teaspoon or so of water and test again.
- Dough sticks to your hands or the press: the dough is too wet. Let it rest uncovered for a few minutes or add a small amount of dry flour.
- Edge is smooth with only tiny cracks: it is ready.
Rest the dough covered with a damp cloth or plastic for 15 to 30 minutes. Resting lets the flour absorb water evenly, which is the quiet secret behind a pliable tortilla.
Pressing
Line a tortilla press with two pieces of plastic, such as cut-open freezer bags, to keep the dough from sticking. Place a ball of dough slightly off-center toward the hinge, since the press tends to push the dough outward. Close the press with steady pressure rather than slamming it.
Aim for a thickness of about two to three millimeters, which is roughly the thickness of a thin pancake. Thinner tortillas cook faster but tear more easily. Some cooks flatten the ball once, turn the plastic, and press again for an even circle. A tortilla press makes even rounds easier, though many cooks shape by hand.
Cooking on the comal
Heat a comal or heavy pan over medium-high heat until a drop of water dances and evaporates quickly. Peel the tortilla from the plastic, lay it on your palm, and place it on the surface.
A common rhythm is:
- Cook for about 30 seconds until the edges lift slightly.
- Flip and cook for up to a minute, until lightly speckled.
- Flip again, and the tortilla often puffs as steam builds. Press gently if it does not.
Times vary with heat and thickness, so watch the surface rather than the clock. Keep finished tortillas wrapped in a clean towel so that they stay soft. A well-heated comal griddle, or any heavy dry pan, gives the best results.
Troubleshooting
Cracked edges. Almost always too little water. Add water in small amounts and rest the dough.
Stiff or leathery tortillas. Often overcooked, or the surface was not hot enough, so they dried before they could puff. Raise the heat slightly and shorten the time. Letting tortillas cool uncovered also dries them.
Tortillas that stick to the plastic. The dough is too wet or the plastic is wrinkled. Rest the dough and smooth the plastic.
Won’t puff. Not unusual. Puffing relates to thinness, even pressing and a hot surface. A tortilla that stays flat is still edible, just a little denser.
Raw patches in the middle. Too thick or the heat is too high, so the outside colors first. Press thinner and reduce the heat a little.
Dough that tears when peeling. Too dry or too thin. Press slightly thicker and check the water.
Gritty dough. The flour is not fine enough or has not rested. Longer resting often helps.
Texture and flavor
The finished tortilla should be soft, flexible and a little chewy, with a clear toasted corn aroma. If it tastes flat, the corn itself may be a factor; different varieties, including blue corn, vary in flavor and behave differently in the dough.
Salt is sometimes left out entirely, and the choice is a matter of preference. Some cooks add a tiny pinch.
Safety and kitchen notes
A hot comal can cause burns, so handle tortillas quickly and carefully. Fresh masa is perishable: refrigerate it, use it within a short period, and discard it if it smells sour or looks off. Dough kept in a warm kitchen sours more quickly. Hands that have touched raw dough should be washed as with any raw flour product.
Practice matters
Few cooks get perfect tortillas on the first batch. The skill is mostly in the feel of the dough and the heat of the pan, and it develops over repeated tries. Keep notes on the water you add, adjust for the next batch, and remember that irregular edges are no flaw. Day-old tortillas that are slightly imperfect are exactly what dishes such as chilaquiles and tostadas need.