What “De la Olla” Means
In Mexican cooking, beans cooked in a pot with their own broth are called frijoles de la olla, literally “beans from the pot.” They are the base for most other bean dishes and are also served on their own, in a bowl with plenty of liquid, often with chopped onion, cilantro and a squeeze of lime on the side.
The method is minimal. It uses dried beans, water, a little onion and often garlic, and perhaps a sprig of epazote. There is little more to it than patience and attention.
Choosing and Sorting Beans
Almost any dried bean works, and the choice usually follows regional habit: black beans in much of the south, and pinto or other pale beans in the north and center. Freshness matters. Beans that have sat on a shelf for a long time can take noticeably longer to soften, and some never become tender. Buying from a shop with fast turnover helps.
Spread the beans on a tray and look through them. Remove small stones, shriveled beans and bits of debris, then rinse in cold water.
Soaking: Optional
Many Mexican cooks do not soak beans at all, especially for the smaller varieties. Skipping the soak simply means a longer simmer. Soaking, for several hours or overnight in plenty of water, shortens cooking time and some people find it makes the beans more even in texture. If you soak, drain the soaking water and start with fresh water for cooking. Either way is acceptable, and neither is the single authentic method.
The Basic Method
- Put the sorted, rinsed beans in a large pot, preferably heavy or made of clay. A traditional olla de barro distributes heat gently, which many cooks prefer, and a clay cazuela serves the same purpose for shallow cooking.
- Cover with plenty of water, roughly three times the volume of beans, since they absorb a lot as they cook.
- Add a halved onion, and a few cloves of garlic if you like. A sprig of epazote can go in now or later.
- Bring to a boil, then lower the heat until the surface barely trembles.
- Cook, partly covered, until tender. Check the water level now and then and top up with hot water, not cold, if the beans become exposed.
- Taste a few beans for doneness. They should be creamy inside, with no chalky center, and easy to crush against the roof of your mouth.
Cooking time varies widely. Soaked beans may need an hour or so, and unsoaked or older beans can take two to three hours or longer. A pressure cooker shortens this considerably, and many households use one, but follow the maker’s instructions because beans can foam and block the vent.
When to Add Salt
Advice on salting is a classic kitchen debate. A common belief is that salt early makes skins tough. Many cooks now say that adding salt partway through, or even at the start, gives better-seasoned beans without harming texture. A safe compromise is to add salt once the beans are beginning to soften, then taste again at the end. Acidic ingredients such as tomato can slow softening, so they are best added late.
Fat and Flavor
Some cooks add a spoonful of lard or oil, or a piece of pork such as a ham bone, bacon or pork rind, to the pot. Others keep the beans strictly vegetarian, which is common and perfectly traditional. A dried chile, a bay leaf or a small piece of avocado leaf are further options in some regions. The goal is a savory but gentle broth, not an elaborate one.
Safety: Cook Them Fully
Dried beans must be boiled thoroughly. Raw or undercooked beans, particularly red kidney beans, contain a natural compound that can cause stomach upset. A rolling boil at the start, followed by a long simmer until fully soft, is standard practice. Slow cookers that never reach a full boil are a known concern for kidney beans, so bring the beans to a vigorous boil on the stove first if you use one.
Using the Beans and Broth
Never discard the broth, which is the best part. Serve the beans in bowls with their liquid, or use them in one of several ways:
- Mash them in hot fat to make refried beans, where the cooking liquid helps adjust the texture.
- Blend them with some broth into a smooth soup.
- Serve them alongside Mexican red rice and corn tortillas as part of the daily meals of many homes.
- Spoon them over a tostada or into a taco.
- Add them to a stew with pork or vegetables.
Cooked beans keep for several days in the refrigerator in their liquid and freeze well. Cool them promptly and reheat them until steaming hot.
Troubleshooting
- Beans stay hard: they are probably old, or the water is very hard. Keep simmering, and consider a pinch of baking soda in the water for stubborn beans, though too much can make them mushy and affect flavor.
- Broth is thin: simmer uncovered for a while, or mash a few beans against the pot.
- Skins split: the heat was too high. Lower it next time.
- Flavor is flat: season a little more, and add chopped raw onion and lime at the table.