What It Is
Huitlacoche (also spelled cuitlacoche) is a fungus that infects corn. Its scientific name is Ustilago maydis, and in English it is usually called corn smut. When the fungus colonizes an ear of corn, the kernels swell into irregular, silvery-gray galls that darken to black as they mature. In many parts of the world farmers treat this as a crop disease. In Mexico, particularly in central regions, it has long been gathered and eaten.
The word comes from Nahuatl, and its meaning is debated. A commonly repeated translation is something like “raven’s excrement,” but sources differ and the exact origin of the word is uncertain. The food itself has been part of central Mexican diets for a very long time, though precise early records are limited, so it is best not to claim more than that.
Why Anyone Would Eat It
The appeal comes down to taste and texture. Cooked huitlacoche is dark, soft and a little juicy, with an earthy, savory flavor that people compare to mushrooms, with a faint sweetness from the corn. Some detect a smoky note. It is often described as tasting like corn and mushroom together, which suits the fact that both are present in the ingredient.
It is eaten in a similar way to cooked mushrooms, and many Mexican cooks regard it as a luxury ingredient, in the way a European cook might regard truffles, although the comparison is only a loose one. The fungus is typically seasonal, appearing in the rainy months when corn is growing, and it can be sold at a premium in markets.
Fresh, Canned and Frozen
In Mexico, fresh huitlacoche is sold in markets during the season, either as whole galls still on the cob or with kernels already cut away. Outside the country, it is more common in cans or jars or frozen. These products differ in quality:
- Fresh: the most prized, with a clean, sweet-earthy taste. It should be handled and cooked promptly.
- Frozen: often a good option that preserves flavor reasonably well.
- Canned or jarred: convenient and widely available, usually softer and saltier, and sometimes already seasoned.
If buying fresh, look for firm, plump galls with a clean smell. Avoid anything slimy, sour or moldy in an unusual way. Because it is a fungus that grows on a living crop, it is wise to buy from a reputable seller and to cook it thoroughly rather than eat it raw.
How It Is Cooked
Huitlacoche is normally sauteed, since heat brings out its flavor. A typical preparation follows the same pattern used for many sauteed fillings:
- Soften chopped onion and garlic in oil or butter.
- Add chopped chile, often serrano or poblano, if desired.
- Add the huitlacoche, with its juices, and cook until the liquid reduces and the mixture turns glossy and dark.
- Season with salt, and often a leaf or two of epazote.
The result is used in several ways:
- Quesadillas: probably the best-known use, with melting cheese folded into corn tortillas.
- Tacos and tlacoyos: as a filling, particularly in oval masa cakes in central Mexico.
- Crepes: a savory filling with cream sauce, a dish common in restaurants in Mexico City.
- Soups: blended into a dark, creamy soup, sometimes with squash blossoms.
- Egg dishes: scrambled or in omelets.
- Tamales and empanadas: as a seasonal filling.
It pairs well with queso fresco, corn kernels, squash blossoms, cream and mild chile, and a plain tortilla highlights its taste better than a heavy sauce would.
Place in the Corn Landscape
Huitlacoche belongs to the wider story of corn in Mexico, where heirloom maize and other types are used at nearly every stage and in nearly every part of the plant. Young ears are eaten as elote, mature kernels are processed through the nixtamalization process, and corn silk, husks and leaves all find a use. Huitlacoche fits in as a gift from the field that others discard. Some farmers deliberately encourage infection in particular fields for the market, although practices vary, and this is a specialized activity rather than a general rule.
Nutrition and Claims
You may read claims about huitlacoche being especially nutritious. Some of this is plausible, as it is a plant-based food that contains protein and fiber, but specific numbers and health promises are best treated with caution unless they come from a reliable source. Here it is enough to say it is a flavorful vegetable-like ingredient, eaten in modest portions as part of a meal.
Storage and Practical Tips
Fresh huitlacoche is perishable and is best cooked within a day or two. Refrigerate it, loosely covered. Frozen product should be thawed in the refrigerator. Cooked mixtures keep for a few days in a covered container in the cold and can be reheated until steaming. Because the fungus is dark, it stains cutting boards and hands.
For people trying it for the first time, a simple quesadilla with a little cheese is the gentlest introduction. The appearance can be off-putting, since it looks like something that has gone wrong with the corn, but the taste is usually much milder and more appealing than first impressions suggest.