Two families of fried snacks
Mexican fried and griddled snacks fall into two broad groups, defined by what they are made from. One group uses wheat: batters and doughs of flour, water and sometimes egg, which puff and crisp in oil. The other uses corn masa, a dough with a different texture and flavor, which can be fried, griddled or both. Knowing which group a snack belongs to explains most of how it behaves in the pan.
The names and shapes shift from town to town, and the same word can describe different foods in different regions. The following describes common patterns, not rules.
Wheat-based snacks
Churros. A churro is a strip of dough piped through a star-shaped nozzle into hot oil, then rolled in cinnamon sugar. The dough is typically made from flour, water and salt, and some versions include egg or butter. Some cooks cook the dough in a pot before frying, and others use it raw. Churros came to Mexico through Spanish influence, and their wider origins are debated, so it is best not to name a single inventor. In Mexico they are common at fairs, in dedicated shops and at street stalls, sometimes filled with cajeta, chocolate or sweet milk caramel. They are a classic of fairground snacks.
Buñuelos. These are thin or round fried discs of wheat dough, rolled out and fried until crisp and blistered, then served with a syrup often made from piloncillo sugar and cinnamon. In many places they are associated with Christmas and the winter season, and are part of Mexican Christmas food traditions in some regions. Others are lighter, puffed or ring-shaped.
Batter-fried foods. Vegetables, cheese and fish are sometimes coated in a flour or egg batter before frying. The egg-white coating on stuffed peppers is a well-known example of this idea.
Plantains and fruit. Slices of ripe plantain fried until caramelized are a common side or snack, usually without any batter.
Masa-based snacks
Masa behaves differently from wheat dough. It has no gluten, so it does not stretch or puff in the same way. It is pressed, pinched or patted into shape and holds together because of the starch and moisture in the nixtamalized corn. The result is denser and more tender, with a pronounced corn flavor. Using fresh masa or masa dough made from masa harina is common, with minor adjustments in water.
Sopes. A sope is a thick, round disc of masa with a pinched rim that forms a shallow cup. It is typically cooked on a griddle, with a toppings layer of beans, meat, lettuce, cream, cheese and salsa added afterward. Some cooks give the sope a quick fry after griddling for a crisper base. The pinched edge keeps the toppings in place.
Gorditas. These are thicker, pocket-style masa cakes, split and stuffed. They are often fried or griddled, with variations from region to region. Sopes and stuffed gorditas share the same dough but differ in shape and how they are filled.
Tlacoyos. These are oval masa cakes with a filling inside, such as beans, fava beans or cheese, and are cooked on a griddle and topped with cooked cactus, salsa and cheese. They are widely eaten in central Mexico.
Memelas, picaditas and garnachas. These are related thick, open-faced masa discs with names that vary by area. Some are fried and some are only griddled. The Oaxacan tlayuda is a large, thin, toasted disc and sits somewhat apart.
Fried quesadillas. In some regions a quesadilla is a folded masa turnover, filled and fried, rather than a folded flour tortilla heated on a griddle. The name is used differently in different places, which is a frequent source of confusion.
Fried tortilla pieces. Crisp tostadas are tortillas fried or baked until dry, which is a different use of masa from the thick cakes above.
Griddle or oil?
Many masa snacks can be cooked either way. The griddle gives a drier, more tender result with browned spots, while frying gives a crisp exterior and richer flavor. Cooks often combine them: cook on the comal until set, then finish in a small amount of oil. A comal griddle is the traditional surface for the first step.
Handling oil
Frying is where most kitchen accidents happen, so a few habits matter.
- Use a heavy, deep pan and fill it only partway, no more than about half full, so the oil cannot boil over.
- Choose a neutral oil with a high smoke point. The temperature typically used for frying these snacks is around 175 to 190 degrees Celsius (about 350 to 375 Fahrenheit). A thermometer is more reliable than guessing.
- Dry everything that goes in. Water makes hot oil spatter violently.
- Lower items in gently, away from you, and avoid crowding. Too many pieces at once cool the oil and make the food greasy.
- Never leave the pan unattended. If oil catches fire, turn off the heat and cover the pan with a lid. Never pour water on it.
- Let used oil cool fully before handling or straining it. Oil used for sweet items such as churros can usually be strained and reused for a short time, though oil that smells off, smokes at low heat or has darkened should be discarded.
Churro dough is a special case. Keep the dough fairly stiff and pipe it carefully, since dough that is too wet can burst and spatter in hot oil.
Where each is eaten
Churros and buñuelos are strongly tied to fairs, holidays and winter evenings. Sopes, tlacoyos, gorditas and similar masa snacks are common at markets and street stalls, and many are made in home kitchens as quick meals. Because customs differ, the same snack may be an everyday breakfast in one region and a festival treat in another.
A few practical pointers
- Rest masa dough, covered, so it hydrates evenly and does not crack.
- Keep the oil temperature steady between batches.
- Drain fried foods on a rack, where they stay crisper than on paper alone.
- Serve fried snacks soon after cooking, since they lose their crispness as they sit.
Fried foods are rich, so they are often paired with something fresh and acidic, such as a salsa, pickled onion or lime. That balance is part of why the tradition has lasted.