A dish with deep roots
A tamal is a portion of corn dough, usually with a filling, wrapped in a leaf and cooked by steam. Versions of the idea predate the Spanish arrival in the Americas, and today tamales are made across Mexico and in much of Central and South America, each place with its own character. The singular is tamal, and the plural is tamales.
Because the dish is so widespread, no single recipe represents it. The sections below describe the common building blocks and some of the ways cooks adjust them.
The masa
Tamale masa starts from corn that has been nixtamalized, meaning cooked with lime and then ground. Cooks may use freshly ground masa from a mill or tortilla maker, or they may rehydrate masa harina. Fresh masa is generally coarser and more flavorful, while masa harina is convenient and widely available, and either can make a good tamal. Traditional corn processing, called the nixtamalization process, is what gives the dough its distinctive taste and its ability to hold together.
To make the dough light, cooks beat fat into the masa, then add warm broth or water and salt, and often a little baking powder in modern recipes. Lard is traditional in many kitchens, and vegetable shortening or oil is common in others. The mixture is beaten until it feels soft and spongy, like a thick frosting. Some cooks test it by dropping a small piece into cold water to see whether it floats, though not everyone relies on this method and a dough can be good without passing it.
If the masa is dry, the tamal will be crumbly. If it is too wet, it can come out mushy. The right balance is a soft, spreadable dough that holds its shape on a spoon. Adjust gradually with broth. Treat any seasoning conservatively at first, since the filling and the cooking add flavor.
Fillings
Savory fillings are often cooked in advance and well seasoned. Familiar examples include:
- Pork in red chile sauce, made from dried chiles
- Chicken or pork in green sauce
- Strips of roasted poblano pepper with cheese, commonly called rajas con queso
- Beans, sometimes with cheese or herbs
- Mole with shredded chicken or turkey, popular in some regions and at celebrations
- Cooked greens or vegetables, which are sometimes meatless
Sweet tamales are also common. They may contain raisins, pineapple, other fruit or cinnamon-flavored masa, and sometimes a colored dough.
Keep the filling fairly thick and not watery. A wet filling will soak into the dough and make the tamal heavy. As a rule, the filling is a smaller amount than the masa, since it should complement and not dominate.
The wrappers
The two most common wrappers are dried corn husks and fresh or frozen banana leaves. Each shapes the final tamal.
Corn husks. Dried husks are soaked in warm water until pliable, usually for about half an hour or until flexible, then drained and patted dry. A thin layer of masa is spread over the smooth side, leaving a border, a spoonful of filling goes in the middle, and the husk is folded into a packet. The husk is a wrapper only and is not eaten. Husk tamales are especially associated with central and northern Mexico, among other regions.
Banana leaves. The leaves are large and flexible once softened. Cooks often pass them over a flame or a hot surface or briefly blanch them to make them supple and bring out their aroma. They are cut into pieces, filled and folded into rectangular parcels, then tied. Banana-leaf tamales are well known in the south and southeast, including Oaxaca, Chiapas, Veracruz and the Yucatan. They tend to be softer and moister than husk tamales, with a gentle, slightly grassy aroma.
Other wrappers are used in local traditions, including corn leaves and other plant leaves, so it is worth treating husk and banana leaf as the two most common, not the only ones. Foil or parchment is sometimes used in home cooking when leaves are not available, but it will not provide the same flavor.
Steaming
Tamales cook in steam. A tall pot with a rack or perforated insert holds the tamales above simmering water. A tamale steamer or an improvised setup works if the tamales stay above the waterline. Stand the husk tamales upright with their open ends facing up, packing them loosely enough that steam can circulate. Cover the tamales with extra husks or a damp cloth, then put a tight lid on the pot.
Steaming typically takes somewhere around one to two hours, depending on size, but time varies with the pot and the amount. Check the water level occasionally and add hot water as needed, because a pot that runs dry can scorch. A tamal is usually considered ready when the masa is firm and pulls away cleanly from the wrapper. Let it rest for several minutes before unwrapping, since the masa continues to set as it cools slightly.
Take care with steam, which causes serious burns. Lift the lid away from your face, and use dry mitts when moving the pot.
If a tamal sticks to the husk or feels raw in the center, it generally needs more time.
Regional variants
- Central Mexico and the north: corn-husk tamales in red or green sauce are common. Some cooks make them rather small and plain, for a snack.
- Oaxaca: tamales wrapped in banana leaf, often filled with mole. The region also has other kinds, such as tamales of beans or of local herbs.
- Yucatan: large tamales traditionally baked in a pit, known in some places as pib, as well as smaller steamed versions. These often use achiote and citrus flavors.
- Veracruz and the Gulf coast: banana-leaf tamales, sometimes with local herbs or large, thick shapes.
- Michoacan: among other kinds are corundas, which are triangular tamales wrapped in long corn leaves. These are generally plain and eaten with cream and sauce.
- Celebrations: tamales are strongly associated with festivals and gatherings. The Candlemas tamales eaten in early February are one example, and tamales also feature in Christmas meals and other occasions.
Making them in a group
Tamales are often made in batches, with several people sharing the work of preparing, filling and wrapping. That labor-sharing is a big part of why they appear at celebrations. A small home batch is also entirely reasonable, and tamales freeze well once cooked.
To store, cool them fully, then refrigerate for a few days or freeze for longer. Reheat until steaming hot throughout, preferably in a steamer so they stay moist.