Soups, Stews and Rice

How Pozole Became a Celebration Stew

Pozole is a hominy stew made in red, green and white styles. Learn how it is built, how the three versions differ and why it appears at celebrations.

On this page
  1. What pozole is
  2. Old stories and what is known
  3. Three colors
  4. How it is built
  5. What goes on top
  6. The occasions
  7. Leftovers

What pozole is

Pozole is a stew built on hominy, which is dried field corn that has been treated with an alkali, traditionally lime (calcium hydroxide), so that the hull loosens and the kernel swells. This is the nixtamalization process that also produces masa. The word pozole is generally traced to a Nahuatl term for the dish, and the stew is made in many parts of Mexico, with the best-known traditions often linked to states such as Guerrero, Jalisco and Michoacan.

A bowl of pozole contains large, soft kernels of hominy, tender meat and a seasoned broth. Pork is the most common meat, often a cut with bone and cartilage, though chicken is widely used too, and vegetarian versions exist. The corn often used is a large-kernel variety known as cacahuazintle, whose kernels open like flowers when cooked, although ordinary canned hominy is also commonly used in home kitchens today.

Old stories and what is known

Popular accounts often connect pozole to pre-Hispanic ritual meals. Sources differ on the details, and some of the most dramatic claims are hard to verify, so it is safest to say only that hominy-based dishes are very old in Mesoamerica and that the modern stew, with pork and European-introduced ingredients such as lime wedges and cabbage in some versions, took shape over time. The present-day association with holidays and family gatherings is much clearer than the earliest history.

Three colors

The three common styles differ mainly in the flavoring added to the hominy and meat.

Red (rojo). The broth is colored and flavored with dried chiles such as guajillo and ancho, which are rehydrated and blended into a smooth sauce. The result is a deep red, mildly spicy stew. Toasting chiles lightly before soaking brings out their flavor, but scorching them makes the sauce bitter.

Green (verde). Often associated with Guerrero, the green style is typically thickened with ground pumpkin seeds and flavored with tomatillos, fresh green chiles and herbs. The seed-thickened base has something in common with pipian sauce, although recipes differ widely.

White (blanco). The broth is left plain, seasoned only with garlic, onion and salt. The heat and color come later, since the diner adds chile, salsa and other accompaniments at the table.

None of the three is the “original” or the only authentic version, and many families have their own recipe.

How it is built

The method is usually long and slow. Pork and aromatics simmer in water for hours until the meat is tender and the broth is well flavored. The hominy is cooked separately or added to the pot, depending on whether it comes dried or canned. Dried hominy takes much longer and usually needs soaking first, while canned hominy only needs rinsing and heating through. The chile sauce, if there is one, is stirred in toward the end.

Handling note: if you work with raw lime or fresh nixtamal, remember that lime is caustic. Wear gloves, avoid contact with the eyes, and rinse the corn thoroughly. Hot broth also deserves care when ladling.

What goes on top

Garnishes are a major part of the dish, and they often arrive in a platter for the table:

  • shredded cabbage or lettuce
  • sliced radishes
  • chopped onion
  • lime wedges
  • dried Mexican oregano, crumbled between the fingers, a use that reflects how cumin and oregano and other dried herbs are used in the pantry
  • ground dried chile or salsa
  • crisp tostadas, often with a topping, served alongside

The fresh, crunchy toppings contrast with the soft hominy and rich broth.

The occasions

Pozole has a strong link with celebrations. It is commonly served on September 15 and 16 for Independence Day, at Christmas and New Year, and at birthdays, baptisms and large family gatherings. The dish suits crowds, since a large pot can be made ahead and kept warm, and guests can dress their own bowls. These habits fit the wider pattern of celebration feasts, in which the effort of a big pot is shared. In some places, a specific day of the week is associated with pozole, such as Thursday in parts of Guerrero and Mexico City, though practice varies.

Because it can feed many, pozole sits comfortably next to other festive dishes. Independence Day tables are also associated with chiles en nogada, for example.

Leftovers

Store the broth and hominy in shallow containers and refrigerate them soon after serving. Reheat until steaming hot. Many people find that the stew tastes better the next day, once the flavors have settled.

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