A stew first
Birria is, at its core, a stew of meat cooked slowly in a chile-based marinade until it is tender enough to pull apart. It is most often associated with the state of Jalisco, where the traditional meat is goat, although similar dishes are made in neighboring states and beef, lamb and mutton versions are all common. Where exactly the dish began is not settled, and different regions tell the story differently, so it is safer to say that Jalisco is its best-known home than to name one inventor or date.
The popularity of birria-filled tacos in recent years has led many people to meet the meat before the pot. This article follows the older path, from the stew in the pot to the broth in the cup.
The marinade
The seasoning paste is an adobo, usually made from rehydrated dried chiles blended with vinegar, garlic and spices. Guajillo and ancho chiles are commonly mentioned, and cooks differ on the rest: cumin, black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, thyme and Mexican oregano all appear in various versions, in modest amounts. The general approach to making a chile adobo is the same as for other marinades, and toasting chiles lightly before soaking them deepens flavor, though scorching them makes the paste bitter.
The meat is coated and left to marinate, often overnight in the refrigerator. Goat is lean and benefits from the acidity of vinegar and the long, gentle cooking that follows. Beef cuts with plenty of connective tissue, such as shank or chuck, are common substitutes and give a richer, fattier broth.
Slow cooking
Traditionally birria was cooked in a covered pot or in a pit, which links it to the wider world of pit barbacoa. Today it is more often simmered in a heavy pot on the stove or baked in a covered dish. In every approach, the principle is the same: cook covered, at low heat, for several hours so that the connective tissue turns tender and the marinade becomes the cooking liquid.
Because the meat is cooked for so long, food safety is mostly about the start and the end. Keep raw meat cold while it marinates, wash hands and boards after handling it, make sure the meat is thoroughly cooked, and cool leftovers promptly before refrigerating them.
Broth and consome
The cooking liquid is not an afterthought. After the meat is lifted out, the broth is typically skimmed of excess fat and seasoned. It may be thinned with a little water or stock, and some cooks strain it to remove bits of spice.
There are several ways to use it:
- As a cup of consome. A small cup of the strained broth is often served alongside the meat to sip between bites.
- In a bowl. The meat can be served in a bowl with the broth poured over, then eaten with warm corn tortillas.
- For dipping. Tortillas or tacos are dipped in the broth, which is the idea behind the modern dipped taco known as quesabirria.
- As a base. Leftover consome can be used to season rice or beans, or as the cooking liquid for the next batch.
Whichever way it is used, the red-tinted film of fat on top is part of the appeal for many people, and a spoon or ladle lets each diner decide how much to skim.
Serving at the table
Birria usually arrives with a few simple accompaniments: chopped onion, cilantro, lime wedges, and a salsa on the side, often a thin, spicy one. Fresh corn tortillas are the typical vehicle. Some places serve a plate of the meat with the cup of consome beside it, and others bring a large bowl for the table.
Because the broth is rich, the sharpness of lime and raw onion is more than decoration; it balances the fat. The same logic is behind many of the finishing toppings used across the cuisine.
Birria across regions
Jalisco cuisine treats birria as a festive dish, often associated with weddings, baptisms and weekend gatherings, which echoes the way big pots feature in celebration feasts elsewhere. Other regions have their own approaches, including versions in which the meat is cooked with a very different spice profile or in a different cut. Calling any one of these the only real birria would overlook the others.
A note on handling chiles
Dried chiles are generally mild to handle, but seeds and veins can irritate skin, and blending a hot paste can release fumes that sting the eyes and throat. Gloves are sensible, and so is keeping hands away from your face.