More than one kind of queso
In Spanish, queso simply means cheese, and Mexico makes a wide range of it. Many styles are fresh and made in small dairies or at home, while others are aged. Dairy arrived with Spanish colonists, who brought cattle, goats and sheep, and over time local cheesemaking traditions developed their own forms. Regional versions vary, and names are not always used consistently from one place to another.
It helps to sort the cheeses by what they do on the plate: some crumble, some melt, some are meant to be eaten as they are.
Fresh cheeses
Queso fresco. A soft, white, mildly salty and milky cheese that is pressed lightly and eaten fresh. It crumbles easily, softens but does not melt into strings, and is used on enchiladas, beans, soups and antojitos. It is often made from cow’s milk, and its texture ranges from moist and spongy to firm and crumbly.
Panela. Another fresh cheese with a firmer, springy texture and a neutral taste. It is often sliced, grilled or pan-seared, because it tends to hold its shape under heat.
Requeson. A soft, ricotta-like curd made from whey, used in fillings for sopes, quesadillas and pastries.
Fresh cheeses are the ones to buy carefully. Choose pasteurized versions, particularly for pregnant people, small children, older adults and anyone with a weakened immune system, because unpasteurized fresh cheese has been linked to foodborne illness.
Aged and salty cheeses
Cotija. Named after the town of Cotija in Michoacan, this is a firm, salty, crumbly cheese that grows sharper with age. It is sprinkled over dishes the way a hard grating cheese might be, and it softens but does not truly melt. It features in the group of finishing toppings used to season elote, beans and tostadas.
Aged or dry cheeses of various local names are made in the mountains and in some northern regions. They are often saltier and harder than shop-bought cheeses and may be grated or eaten with fruit and bread.
Stretched and melting cheeses
Oaxaca cheese (quesillo). A stretched curd cheese wound into balls, mild and milky, which pulls into strands when heated. It is used in quesadillas, tlayudas and stuffed chiles.
Asadero and Chihuahua-style cheeses. Semi-soft cheeses that melt smoothly and are associated with northern Mexico. Chihuahua cheese is closely linked to the Mennonite communities in that state, who developed a mild, buttery cheese similar to a young cheddar or Monterey Jack. Northern cooking, with its beef, cheese and flour tortillas, makes frequent use of them.
Manchego-style and other melting cheeses. Mexican versions of Spanish-inspired cheeses exist, although they differ from the Spanish originals and use cow’s milk in most cases.
How they are made, in brief
Most Mexican cheeses begin with milk that is warmed and curdled, often with rennet or an acid. The curd is cut and drained, then salted and pressed for a short time (fresh cheese) or longer (aged cheese). Stretched curd cheeses are heated in hot water or whey and pulled. The degree of moisture, salt and aging determines whether the cheese crumbles, slices or melts.
Melting cheese, melted dishes
Not all Mexican cheese melts. Queso fresco and cotija soften but stay crumbly, which is why they are used as toppings, not as melting cheeses. Cheeses that melt well tend to be moderately moist, mildly aged and not too salty. A common dish called queso fundido uses a melting cheese baked or heated in a small dish, often topped with chorizo, roasted poblano strips or mushrooms, and eaten with tortillas. Moderate heat is better than high, because overheated cheese becomes greasy or rubbery.
How this differs from Tex-Mex queso
North of the border, “queso” often refers to a smooth, warm cheese dip, frequently made with processed cheese or a melting cheese stabilized with milk or other additives, and often flavored with chiles. This is a distinct Tex-Mex tradition with its own history. It is related to, but not the same as, Mexican queso fundido, and it does not represent the full range of cheeses in Mexico. Both can be enjoyed, and the difference is mainly one of context and recipe.
Cream and other dairy
Cheese is often paired with crema, a thin and lightly tangy cultured cream. Together, a crumble of queso fresco and a drizzle of crema balance chile and acidity in dishes such as sauced enchiladas or beans.
Using cheese well
- Match the cheese to the job: crumbling, slicing, or melting.
- Taste before salting a dish, since cheeses vary in saltiness.
- Add melting cheese near the end of cooking.
- Refrigerate fresh cheese, use it within the time on the label, and discard it if it smells sour or looks slimy.