A vine, not a bean
Vanilla comes from the fruit of an orchid. The species behind most of the world’s supply, Vanilla planifolia, is native to southeastern Mexico and nearby parts of Central America. It is a climbing vine that clings to trees in humid forest, and it produces pale green-yellow flowers that open for only a short time. The “bean” is the long seed pod that follows, and its familiar smell develops only after careful curing.
Early use in Mesoamerica
Vanilla has long been associated with the Gulf coast region of what is now Veracruz, where the Totonac people are traditionally credited with early cultivation. It was used in Mesoamerica to flavor drinks, and it is commonly described as an ingredient in the cacao drinks of the region. Written details from before the Spanish arrival are limited, so claims about exactly how and when it was used are best treated with caution. What is well documented is that, after the Spanish arrived, vanilla and cacao both traveled to Europe and became linked in the early history of chocolate.
Why the plant stayed in Mexico for so long
For a long time, attempts to grow vanilla elsewhere produced vines but no pods. In Mexico, the flowers are generally said to be pollinated naturally by certain native bees, and there is also a physical structure inside the flower that keeps it from self-pollinating without help. Outside the plant’s home range, no matching pollinators existed.
The problem was solved in 1841, when a young enslaved boy named Edmond Albius on the island of Reunion developed a practical hand-pollination method using a small stick or tool. The technique is still used today, and it explains much of vanilla’s cost. Each flower must be pollinated by hand within a few hours of opening, one at a time. After that, vanilla spread to Madagascar and other tropical regions, which now produce most of the world’s supply.
From pod to flavor
A freshly picked pod has almost no vanilla aroma. Flavor develops during a curing process that typically has several stages:
- Killing the pod, often with heat or hot water, to stop it growing and start enzymes working.
- Sweating, in which the pods are kept warm and wrapped so they darken.
- Drying, in sun and shade, over days or weeks.
- Conditioning, where the pods rest for weeks or months so the aroma matures.
Methods differ by producer. The whole process takes months, which, together with the hand pollination, explains why real vanilla is among the more expensive flavorings.
The place of vanilla in cooking
Vanilla flavors a number of traditional preparations in Mexico, particularly sweet ones: custards, sweet breads, hot drinks, ice creams and fruit preparations. It is often combined with cinnamon and sugar, and it complements chocolate without overwhelming it. Cooks sometimes simmer a whole split pod in milk or syrup, or use a few drops of extract in a batter. Tres leches cakes, flans and many dulces tipicos make use of it, although recipes vary by region and household.
Buying Mexican vanilla: sensible cautions
Vanilla extract is sold in many tourist areas and markets, and quality varies considerably. A few cautions:
- Pure vanilla extract is made by soaking pods in alcohol and water. Because of that alcohol content, it is not a drink, and it is for use as a flavoring only.
- Some inexpensive products sold as vanilla have been found to contain other flavorings, including coumarin, a compound from tonka beans that health authorities have warned against in food. If a very large bottle is sold unusually cheaply, it may not be pure vanilla.
- Look for labeling that says pure vanilla extract, and buy from a seller you trust. Check the ingredients list.
- Whole pods should feel supple and slightly oily, not brittle or dried out, and should smell rich.
Storing vanilla
Keep pods in an airtight container in a cool, dark place, away from the refrigerator, where they may dry out or form crystals. Extract keeps well in a sealed, dark bottle. A pod that has been used to flavor milk can often be rinsed, dried and reused or placed in sugar to flavor it.
A crop with complicated economics
Vanilla remains a delicate crop. Plants take a few years to flower, the harvest is labor-intensive, and prices have varied widely over time. Because of its value, pods have historically been at risk of theft in some growing areas, and growers in places have developed marking and timing practices to protect their crops. Veracruz and neighboring areas are still associated with traditional vanilla growing, although Mexican production is only a small share of the global total today.